Tuesday, November 12, 2013

Day 6: A Salute to the Somme....Stories of New Zealanders, Newfoundlanders and the British and a final farewell to the North of France and Freck



A dreary cold morning cannot dampen our spirits as we head off to visit a number of memorials in the area that are extremely significant in their own right.  We have seen and felt the Vimy experience and the kids have grown because of them.  We are now off to see the memorials of Beaumont-Hamel and Thiepval, but prior to that we are heading down under…well not down under as you may think but pretty close.  We are closing in on Wellington Quarry which was constructed around the city of Arras and was a series of about 12 miles of tunnels that were used to house soldiers during WWI and in WWII were used to protect the people of Arras from the violent shelling that occurred in the area of Arras.  The kids look some cute in their mining helmets that we have to wear in order to enter the quarry.  The underground that I was referring to is down an elevator shaft about 60 feet below the surface and is completely amazing. 
The quarry itself is dug into the chalk that is located in the area and in total all of the quarries in the area are able house over 24,000 soldiers during that time.  The New Zealanders that were mainly responsible for the area we are visiting have named certain parts for th
e regions of their homeland, Auckland, Christchurch and Wellington being the most famous.

At each new area of the tunnel that we stop we are greeted with more sounds from years past, video footage of images and the headset translators fill in the details that we are seeing around us, and a tour guide that is explaining everything in detail to solidify what they are learning, a little more on the 6 foot blonde translator later on.  It is a new exhibit and a very impressive one once again and we are truly lucky to be able to fit all of this into our tour.
The kids are doing pretty well with being so far underground and the fact that we are in constant motion probably alleviates any fear that we are so far down.  That is until the kids start getting hit with some big drops of water from the roof of the cavern, I can see a slight look of concern on their faces.  Actually the moisture is what gives the chalk its strength, in fact dry chalk would not be great because it is much more brittle and easier to crack and break, so rest easy.  Obviously we made it back up.  The only thing that may have kept us down was the guide, and that would only be because she did not like ME!  Well I can’t say that she didn’t like me for sure, but she certainly did  not give me a warm fuzzy feeling when she told me the questions she was asking were to be answered by the students and not by me!!!!  In my defense, my students were not answering and I began by trying to whisper the answers in their ears and they still would not respond.  So in order to alleviate the awkward silence I start answering the questions, well at least until I am told not to anymore.  Luckily Charlie, my wingman, takes over and tries to kick in with some answers and is doing a great job of alleviating the silence.  After getting back above ground to warmer climes and warmer feelings of our group, we are off and on our way to Beaumont-Hamel. 
Team TOSH
The rain has picked up and the drive is about 30 minutes tops but unfortunately for the Gosse family we are unable to get down to the cemetery and do a grave rubbing.  There has been a massive amount of rain in the north of Europe over the last 2-3 weeks and the valley below the famous “Danger Tree” is a mud pit and is inaccessible.  Nonetheless, the experience of Beaumont is almost second to none when you hear the stories of the brave Newfoundland boys and the large number of casualties they incurred on July 1, 1916.  Which is why on July 1st in Newfoundland, prior to their joining of Canada in 1949, that day was set aside as their Remembrance Day, and even to this day the morning of the first in Newfoundland is widely recognized with acts of remembrance and then they party like the rest of us on our nation’s birthday.
Kinkora crew
This is my third trip to Beaumont and the stories of then men who died here that morning in 1916, which was a part of the greater Battle of the Somme, always strike a chord in my heart.  Although the same story is generally told each time I come here, hearing that not one street in the city of St. John’s in 1916 did not have a lost soldier on it, after the numbers were finalized.  IN fact, of the 240,000 people live in the Dominion of NFLD at the time, 1000 men sign up to fight overseas.  On the morning of July 1st, 25 minutes after the battle had begun the men left St. John’s road trench, and 15 minutes later, of the 780 that had gone over the top only 110 survived unscathed and only 68 of those could make roll call the next morning, it works out to an approx. casualty rate of over 80%.  They had about 250 yards to advance to lower ground, in a valley below no man’s land and they were unable to move that far.  Their objective was to get to the “Danger Tree” two and half footballs fields away and were unable to get there because of such heavy artillery by the Germans.
Danger Tree
The entire memorial is centered on the famous caribou of the Newfoundland Regiment and it is simply beautiful.  I am always proud to come here because I always feel that both sets of islanders have many of the same qualities and it is truly a beautiful place, even in the pouring rain!
Thiepval
From the Newfoundlanders we head up the road a few kms away to the British equivalent of Vimy, Thiepval.  This monument is dedicated to the dead of the British Empire and this memorial alone has over 77,000 names on it whose names have no known grave.  This is my 2nd visit back to Thiepval and this time it is extra special.  When I first started planning this trip, I was building, along with a great deal of help from EF and my good friend Mary Erskine, we were centering it around the November 11th ceremonies, but the fact is once you get to this region there are a million places, monuments and sites to visit and I always want to do them all.  In our case it is difficult because of the cramped event times, but we are getting to this high points and its awesome, but I said extra special because my good friend from Kinkora, Kevin Bustard gets to be the first in his family to visit and see the name of his great grandfather Bustard on the memorial. 
This is always a special time and I have been a part of this little moments in life a few times now, 3 on this trip alone, and I love the feeling of pride that beams from people’s faces when they see the names on the graves or the memorials.
Kevin and the Royal Rifles
We board the bus one last time and head to Paris, after tomorrow morning we will no longer have Freck Vandenmuelen our wonderful bus driver from the Netherlands, he has been by far the best driver I have ever had from EF, the kids love him.  He is the first driver I have ever had that accompanies the kids on all the exhibits and dinners and he seriously looks out for them while we are walking to and from the bus.  Another set of eyes is always helpful, even with this group of kids, and throw in the fact that the kids want him to come makes it all the better.  We have about 2 hours plus to Paris in a fairly heavy rain, so sleep is in order for myself and many of the kids.  Paris will be a great experience for the kids, but will mean a little more vigilance with their belongings and being attentive to travelling by the metro and subway, but I think they are up for it even in their tired state.
Upon arriving into the city of Paris, I notice that Scott has taken 789,998,987,000,765,999 pictures to this point.  They include an Ikea on the outskirts of the city, a toll station outside of the city from both sides of the bus, Staples headquarters outside of the city, grass, water, pavement, etc.  Olive I pity your 27 straight evenings of slide shows at home!!!  Haha
After dropping our bags, we hit the ground running, literally to catch the train into the heart of the city and for our supper and eventually a night, albeit a rainy one up on Mont Matre.  I will sign off for now because Kevin is sawing 9 cords of wood beside me and I need to affix some sort of contraption to my head so that I can sleep.  My device of my noise/snore cancelling headphones has fallen through because I discovered on the first flight that my expensive headphones were broken in their case, will need to investigate when I get home, so I do the best I can to get some sleep, but Paul Bunyan, who is about 2 feet from me prevents a full nights rest!!!  Haha at least he is a great daytime travelling companion!!!  Take care everyone and I hope that you are enjoying our stories.  It is fun writing them and the kids all enjoying reading them as well….in fact this morning at breakfast I was in bad stead because I had not posted before I went to bed.  They had nothing to read in the morning!  Tomorrow will be spent at the Louvre and touring the city of Love as Charlie, my budding stallion had put it.  Actually I have referred to him more of an Acadian miniature pony so far because he has been shot down by so many European girls at this point.  Sorry Jo, but with a little coaching yesterday and today he has finally made some inroads and has gotten some responses as we meet different groups from around the world.  I will update further to see how his equine status changes tomorrow….but for now we will leave him at miniature pony status but I do need to give him A+ for effort!!!  Take care and chat tomorrow!!!

dc

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